Who doesn’t appreciate a good mini mall? Also known as a strip mall, particularly in North America, it is described as a linear selection of stores and restaurants sharing a parking lot on a busy main road. Less of a commitment than the Mall, a strip mall is convenient for one stop shopping or food in your local community. Though you’re more apt to find pizza, Chinese take-out or your local Subway at a strip mall than you are premium dining, every now and then a gem appears. I found that gem on Whitney Avenue in Hamden, Connecticut. Situated among a hobby shop, bubble tea joint, nail salon and a UPS store is Wildcat, named for its owners’ love of all feline creatures, large and small. Wildcat is a fabulous find! Owners and brothers Kris and Shane McGowan have positively aced it. Their dishes are exquisite; perfectly composed, executed and presented. There is a generous selection of small plates as well as main plates, all creatively inspired and dished up by Chef Brian.
The space is warm and woody with dark green walls adorned with cool and eclectic artwork, and a nice collection of vintage brass mirrors. You’ll find a generous sized bar at Wildcat , as well as a long wooden communal dining table seating 14, and several high tops positioned around the room. There are also a few tables outside, though the view is hardly optimum. This place is lively, casual and comfortable. My grandson describes it as hip.
We began our evening with RED SNAPPER CRUDO, spring onion ash, shishito chimichurri, cilantro, and finger lime. The snapper had that “just caught” freshness I adore.
Next, PLUM & HEIRLOOM TOMATO SALAD with smoked tomato dressing, tomato furikake, feta, and fresh herbs. Oh my.
Next up was CHARRED CORN & RADISH SALAD with arugula, mizuna, queso fresco, fried shallot, creamy lime dressing, and herbs picked from their garden out back. The salad was served back to back with GRILLED PEACHES with jimmy nardello peppers, stracciatella, basil, and lardo. Next time I’ll 86 the lardo. An Italian delicacy popular in the town of Colonnata in Tuscany, lardo is basically made from the thick layer of fat found on the back of a pig directly beneath the skin. It’s cured with salt and spices. There’s a large degree of textural tension going on when I’m in the company of lardo.
CONFIT DUCK LEG with pickled & fresh gooseberries, fennel, rosemary, watercress and orange vinaigrette. Are you getting the impression that Wildcat is far from the ordinary? Oh, did I forget to mention they have a wonderful burger.
Instead of dessert, we split a JETS DU BRESIL, a delightful cocktail with pineapple rum, banana liqueur, cynar, amaro dell’etna, and smoked chili bitters. The after dinner drinks were served in lovely little coupe glasses. Speaking of cocktails, the drink menu is fabulous. Christian and Ricky manning the bar are more bar chefs than bartenders. They truly understand the art and science of concocting and preparing the perfect cocktail, and they’re two of the nicest guys you’ll ever want to meet. The craft cocktail menu boasts concoctions like Tamarindo Sour, Lady Lucille and Almond-Gioia.
I’ve been noticing the addition of Conserva at a few restaurants lately. Conserva is a selection of tinned fish, often served with herb butter, house giardiniera, confit garlic, and sourdough bread. Wildcat’s Conserva choices are sardines, smoked mussels and scallops.
Curious? I highly recommend Wildcat for your next culinary adventure or just a bite and a frosty beverage. Just think, you can score a munch and a mani in one stop.
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