Let me get right to the point. Doma on Main, an Italian restaurant in Branford, is in dire need of a facelift! It’s name immediately conjures up thoughts of a cool, trendy spot. Doma on Main is anything but. This little eatery took over the space that once housed Strega Restaurant, which also needed a facelift! We recently heard that the new place underwent a much needed makeover, so we thought we’d give it a whirl. As it turns out, the “reno” was a rumor.
We dropped by on a Thursday evening for a meal after having drinks at a nearby cocktail club. We were saving our appetites for what we thought would be a pretty good dining experience. Oops!
The ambience: It was apparent that Doma is simply the same old Strega, with a new name. Sans makeover, the restaurant is a very confined, awkward, and unattractive space. The small venue is divided into three separate areas; a cramped bar area, a narrow dining room and an adjoining area with 3 high tops alongside large windows overlooking Main Street. The high tops are “prime real estate” so we chose the lone unoccupied one and settled in. We sat there for a moment taking in our surroundings. It was breathtaking, but not in a good way. Each separate area is partitioned off by a wood paneled half-wall with glass panels above that are etched in a bright white damask-like pattern. Actually, the etching may have been stenciled white paint. It was hard to tell. In either case, the design detail was strangely out of place. The barriers created a maze-like area, closed off and confining, mocking the basic principles of feng shui. These are surroundings that make you want to run, anywhere. There is an an abundance of pleather, mismatched materials, clashing colors and poor lighting. “Could this place be any more antiquated?” And then, Elvis hit the airwaves.
As one who has always appreciated a good makeover, I chatted with Michael about what we’d do to take the space from dreary to dashing. Removing the unattractive partitions and opening up the entire space would be a critical first step. Basic updating with attractive and modern elements would make the space chic and inviting. We were determined in our vision, however, to maintain the old world charm and classic ambience of a neighborhood bistro. There are no limits when you’re playing “let’s pretend.”
The food: I started off with the grilled romaine. The thing about grilled romaine is that it really doesn’t require anything more than a drizzle of olive oil, a citrus, and some herbs—maybe a light sprinkling of grated parmesan or a side of baked parmesan crisps. The lightly charred edges of the greens should be savored, without being masked. Doma, however, tried to convert this dish into a wedge salad by adding bacon, slices of blue cheese, tomatoes, and a heavy dressing. Such a desecration of simple, grilled greens!
Michael chose the beef carpaccio, with capers, baby arugula, hot cherry peppers, shaved parmigiana, and lemon vinaigrette. Carpaccio should be bright red in color and appear fresh and, well, raw. Doma’s version was drowning in a dressing heavy with citrus and oil that actually cooked the beef and turned it into unappealing gray. The abundance of additional ingredients was unnecessary and completely overpowered the beef, in taste and presentation. Less is always more.
Next up was Zuppa di Clams with garlic, shallots, chorizo, butter, white wine, and parsley. This dish was such a disappointment. Instead of a broth rich in clam juices and white wine, (the kind of sauce you want to linger over and dunk crusty bread in after you’ve finished the clams), the stock was more like a bowl of melted butter. Their accompanying crusty bread was slathered in olive oil. So uncalled-for. The dish would have been better served in a large, low, wide rimmed bowl with a separate vessel for discarded shells. The clams were crowded in an oval ramekin, more appropriate for a seafood casserole.
When we left Doma, we exited through the back door, passing through a hidden dining room we hadn’t realized was there. It was rather attractive, with a charming brick wall, artwork and pleasant lighting. We wondered why nobody was seated in this “secret room.” I thought to myself, “oh, next time,” and then I thought better.
