Shell and Bones is a waterside, marina side eating house located in New Haven’s historic City Point district. It certainly helps that we’re walking distance to this Franco Camacho crowd-puller, since I forgot my jacket tonight and dashed home to retrieve it in 5 minutes flat. Ahhh.
Shell and Bones is the only restaurant in Connecticut acknowledged by The James Beard Foundation as “Committed to the goals of the Smart Catch Program.” Smart Catch is an educational program created by chefs for chefs with the purpose of increasing the sustainability of the seafood offered on menus. The Seal gives diners a simple way to identify and support restaurants that are working to protect our oceans. Bravo, Shell and Bones!
Shell and Bones has a lovely dining room, beachy and breezy and open to the outdoors. The bar is large and lively, a fun space with fun folks mixing up your libations. From the bar, you’ll get a birds eye view of the open kitchen where the staff is always bustling, preparing Camacho-inspired cuisine that has made this restaurant so popular. If you notice flashes of a silver, curly, wildly voluminous mane towering above the steaming pots and pans, Franco’s at the helm. He’s the paragon of a symphony conductor.
The restaurant’s two outside areas are lovely— a covered patio (reservations accepted) and a not-covered, long and narrow deck (first come, first serve), breezy, salty, heavenly. Watercraft abound.
We showed up early sans reservation and, surprisingly, were able to snag a spot outdoors on the narrow deck. This virtually never happens as S and B is usually at full capacity in the summer months. It was a perfect evening for al fresco; shady, breezy, comfortably cool. Our table was positioned along the very edge of the deck, just above the water, making cellphone table placement a critical choice. One careless arm-fling and you can kiss that baby goodbye.
The menu boasts a great selection of signature cocktails, mock tails, and fresh-squeezed juices. The wine list is impressive and includes several special reserve wines by the glass.
The Raw bar selection is fabulous. The Tower of Shells is a must if you’re out with a group of “sea-foodies.” Their ceviche (my personal favorite) is “bottomless.” Of course, I ordered it tonight. I always do.
We started the evening with the Les Valentines cotes de Provence Rose’ and the Arrumaco Garnacha Rosé. A nice little S and B touch – you can choose a 6 oz or 3 oz pour. You know those times when you’ve had a glass but don’t want to order another full glass? Me neither.
Michael had the Seared Albacore Tuna with pequillo peppers, romesco and summer squash ragout. Wowing us with a less popular fish is a perfect example of their Smart Catch commitment to sustainability.
While he blissed-out over his albacore tuna, I had the blueberry, herb-whipped ricotta flatbread with pickled onions and arugula topped with a balsamic glaze. This dish has what I call the fabulous five; crispy, fruity, creamy, tangy, leafy. It’s a thoughtfully constructed, superbly assembled fusion of texture, savory and sweet. I added a simple greens salad. Completeness!
No dessert tonight, but if we were to indulge, it would have been the Tres Leche, the best around, bar none. If you had the pleasure of dining at Roomba on Chapel Street in New Haven many years ago and remember Franco’s Tres Leche fondly, you’ll be happy to know that the Shell and Bones’ version is exactly the same. You don’t mess with perfection!
